There was a chef change last spring. Sajin Renae left for New York, and Cyrus Keefer came in from Birroteca to take her place.
It was a gentle transition, but by the end of the year, Keefer had pretty much transformed the menu at this posh corner spot.
Here’s some of what you would have found in late December — a bone-in kung pao chicken with crispy veal sweetbreads, a duck breast Wellington and, our favorite, a bollito misto (literally, a “mixed boil”), a classic northern Italian preparation that makes a life-affirming stew out of tough, inexpensive or otherwise difficult meats. That’s the kind of cooking that we salute.