The Japanese restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore had a great sophomore year.
It stopped worrying so much about what it was — a contemporary izakaya? a sushi bar? — and started having fun.
Now that the fog has lifted, Pabu’s best qualities — the superior selection of raw fish and the creativity — could be seen more clearly.
Pabu, which is overseen by the California-based Mina Group, also began to give its in-house executive chef, Jonah Kim, more scope and a bigger share of the spotlight. That kind of thing matters.